Maryland 'Z Club Tech Tips

Air Conditioner

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

MIKE ANSWERS THE TOP TEN FIRST GENERATION Z CAR QUESTIONS - PART 3

"Mike, the air conditioning in my Z is blowing hot air - I'm suffering - what can I do?"

Your freon has escaped into the upper atmosphere and is devouring our finite supply of ozone. The most common places for Z car air conditioning systems to leak are, in order; condenser, evaporator, and schrader valves. Schrader valves, what the hell are they? They are the ports through which we charge and monitor, with gauges, the air conditioning system. They leak all the time new or old. In order to prevent the now very costly freon from escaping, manufacturers install a cap, fitted with an o ring, over the valve. If a cap is missing (and 50% of the Z cars I see in my shop fit into this category) you have a freon leak. If the o ring is petrified or missing, the cap will surely leak. So, if you're planning to have your long dormant air conditioning system brought back to life, don't forget the very important role of the schrader valve cap. It will save you money and help save or ozone layer. Now, where did I put my SPF 15?

Michael McGinnis

Banzai Motorworks

Too Much Camber Is Not A Good Thing!

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

"Mike, my 300ZX (1990-1996) is wearing the inside of my front tires - help!"

I have heard this plea a lot lately but do not fret, there is a cure.

Camber, as defined by the Society of Automotive Engineers, is the inclination of the wheel toward the car's longitudinal plane as measured in the vehicle's transverse plane. In other words, if the top of the wheel is inclined toward the center of the car, you have negative camber. If the bottom of the wheel is inclined toward the center of the car, it is positive.

In order to achieve maximum tire life a Mk 2 300 ZX should have almost neutral camber. Although specifications allow slightly more than one degree of negative camber, I have found that this much or more will cause premature tire wear.

Now for the meat of the matter; there are a minority of 300s that, after a proper alignment, persist in wearing out the inside edge of the tires. The problem is too much negative camber and 300ZXs do not have adjustable camber - what can we do?

In steps the after-market. Several years ago former Nissan factory driver Steve Millen began the manufacture of performance parts and accessories for 300ZXs. Among his many offerings is a kit (part number 308050) that replaces the nonadjustable factory upper link with an adjustable unit - viola - adjustable camber! As of this article I have installed three of these kits with excellent results. The installation takes me a little over an hour followed by an alignment followed by no more tire wear problems. Please note, this is not a cure for a car that has damaged and or worn front suspension or steering components.

Steve Millen Sportsparts can be reached at 3176 Airway Avenue, Costa Mesa, CA 92626, or by phone at 714-540-9154.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Electronics

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

The following article is compliments of MOTOR magazine

Eye on Electronics

Fuse systems used to be a simple topic. When an electrical accessory didn't work, you checked the fuse panel, pulled a red plastic fuse out and put a new one in its place. If the fuse blew again, you tried to find out what was causing it to blow.

But as the electrical complexity of the automobile has grown, so, too, has the sophistication of the fuses system. According to a couple of recent SAE papers written by the engineers at Littlefuse, there's a lot more to know today regarding fuses.

First things first. A fuse is a thermal device. In other words, as current travels through the metal element of the fuse, it heats up. If the amount of current is too high, the temperature will rise to the melting point of the fuse metal and the circuit will become open.

The line that "fuses are successful when they fail" has been around a long time. It's true, too, because a defective fuse is one that doesn't open up when an excess-current situation is experienced. Fuses are designed to protect wire harnesses from being destroyed by the heat caused when excess current flows due to a fully or partially shorted load.

There are many devices in an automotive electrical system that do not draw a steady, consistent level of current during normal operation. And here is where things start to get more involved. One of the characteristics of both solenoids and motors, for instance, is that they have a high inrush of current. When first turned on, they look like a short circuit to the electrical system. This current may be two or three times more than the normal operating current of the circuit.

This brings the element of time into the equation. The degree of heat to which the fuse element is exposed depends on both the amount of current and the time it's present. Fuses can be designed to withstand that high inrush current, and at the same time react to lower levels that are present for longer periods of time.

Normally, the average automotive fuse sees hundreds or even thousands of inrush current cycles during the life of the vehicle. If you think about it, this is a lot like the thermal cycle tests they do on electrical assemblies, where pulses of heat-causing expansion are followed by cooling periods during which the metal contracts.

As a fuse thermal cycles due to these current pulses, a certain amount of metal fatigue occurs. Because fatigue alters the metallurgy of the fuse material, the amount of heat for a given current surge increases. The number one cause of nuisance fuse failures is attributed to this "wear-out factor".

I don't know about you, but the idea that a fuse could be weakened over time by normal current pulses was news to me. I've always wondered why some of the fuses I've replaced seem to blow for no apparent reason. It's nice to know that at least some of those cars I've been working on didn't have a random, intermittent short waiting to turn into a comeback.

Traditionally, fuses have been located as close as possible to the source of power. This is where they're most effective in protecting all the wiring in a given circuit regardless of where a fault actually occurs. This requirement is what has lead to the underdash fuse block as the main power distribution center for all the accessories in a car.

There are some disadvantages to this arrangement. One is that the fuse and the wiring to the various accessories have to be large enough to carry the load of those accessories. If each device had its own fuse, it would be necessary to run only enough wire to accommodate its own current needs. With shrinking car sizes and the need for lighter-weight vehicles, however, there's a push to reduce the size and the weight of the wire harnesses. One way to do this is to move the fuse out near the assemblies being protected.

There are other ways to protect the wiring system and the components attached to it besides fuses. The problem with the standard blade fuse is that, while it is cheap, it's also a one-time device that has to be replaced every time it blows. For a wiper system that's jammed by snow and ice, it would be nice to have a circuit breaker that could either be reset or that would automatically reset itself.

Circuit breakers use a piece of bimetal as a part of the circuit. When the current passing through the bimetal intensifies, the bimetal flexes, opening the contacts of the circuit breaker and tripping the circuit electrically.

There are three different types of circuit breakers currently in use - cycling breakers, remote-reset breakers and manual-reset breakers. The cycling breaker depends on the cooling of the bimetal to automatically close the circuit. If the overcurrent situation still exists, the bimetal reheats and the circuit opens up again.

The cycling breaker is what you typically find in the headlight system of a vehicle. The opening and closing rate is carefully chosen to protect the wiring, while at the same time allowing enough "on" time for the driver to get the car off the road should the failure occur at night. Power seats are another device often protected by this type of breaker.

Remote-reset breakers do not reset until power is removed from the circuit. These units are built by wrapping resistive wire around the bimetal and connecting it to either side of the contact points. Should the circuit open up, enough current will flow through the wire to keep the bimetal warm, preventing the resetting of the circuit. Switching off the power or removing the battery cables allows the bimetal to cool by depriving the heater wire of its needed current.

Manual-reset breakers are like the ones you're used to seeing in electrical panels. When they kick out, you have to manually move a reset lever or push a reset button. Internally, the manual-reset breaker works by positioning a piece of sprint-loaded insulating material between the contacts when they separate due to the over-heating of the bimetal. When you reset the breaker, you move the insulation away from the contacts.

There are newer types of fuses showing up in automotive applications, as well. One of these is called a PTC element. It works similar to a coolant temperature sensor, except that it has a positive temperature co-efficient, meaning its resistance increases the hotter it gets.

There are two variations of PTCs, depending on how they're made. The ceramic PTC uses a disc of semiconductive ceramic. It can be places in a circuit in such a way that current flows through it. If the current gets too high, the resistance resets and the current level falls off. For a ceramic PTC to work properly, the current must be reduced to zero for the device to return to its low-resistance state. This puts it into the same category as the remote-reset breaker. The main disadvantage of the ceramic PTC is that its resistance never quite reaches zero, even when it's cool.

Polymeric PTCs are made of a high-density polyethylene plastic loaded with a conductive material such as carbon black. When the device overheats due to excess current, the plastic holds the carbon black together less tightly, allowing fewer electrical paths through the carbon. When everything cools down, most of the paths will reestablish, allowing a return to pretty much the same resistance as before.

Typically, PTC devices have been used to protect such devices as the power window motor and lock motor or solenoid. These devices can be jammed by material such as ice and snow.

An item you might be seeing more of, if not for the fact that they're so expensive, is the electronic fuse. These devices typically contain a MOSFET-type transistor to handle the current to the load. Internal to the MOSFET is a temperature-sensing diode. If the diode detects that the transistor is overheating, it can cause the transistor to shut down until the temperature cools off. Typically, the smart power fuse will "reconnect" when the temperature falls about 25°C.

According to the guys from Littlefuse, one of the things you will be seeing in the future is more fuses located in more areas. This may mean that the main fuse panel will be divided up and smaller panels put in such places as under the hood, inside the doors or under the instrument panel. Self-fusing assemblies that detect when they're drawing more current than allowed and shut themselves off are here now and likely to become more widespread as their cost falls.

From a service standpoint, the thing to be aware of is that there are more fuses to be concerned with now than just the ones in the fuse panel. Some circuit breakers need to be manually reset; others need to have power removed from them to be reset. Like never before, having a good knowledge of the particular system on which you're working will be the difference between making money and making enemies.

Maintenance

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

I've chosen a general maintenance problem I've encountered many times in the course of my more than 24 year career as a Datsun/Nissan mechanic. I'll call it "How come my Z/ZX is still overheating?" Typically, a customer will bring a Z/ZX to my shop having recently replaced one or more cooling system components in an effort to cure a persistent overheating condition by first replacing the thermostat. This can frequently be a good starting point, especially if the car was purchased used and/or the service history is unknown. If after replacing the thermostat the overheating continues, a good place to look for a solution could be the radiator.

As we all know, the purpose of a radiator is to dissipate heat. In the case of an automobile, heat is generated by the combustion that takes place in the cylinders of the engine. Water jackets surround the cylinders and these jackets, hollow cavities really, are full of coolant. The water pump circulates the coolant through the engine and into the radiator. The radiator of a Z/ZX is made up o 50 or more vertical, slightly flattened, hollow tubes approximately 3mm in diameter. Between the tubes and arranged in a zigzag pattern are the thin metal heat sinks. In a perfect world, the coolant is circulated by the water pump through the tubes and the heat caused, as you will remember, by combustion is dissipated through the heat sinks, called cooling fins, and into the atmosphere. If these tubes become plugged, the ability of the radiator to transfer heat to the atmosphere will be reduced in direct proportion to the percentage of blockage. The solid material that causes the blockage is heavier than the coolant used in the system so it will collect in the bottom of the tubes. Except for extreme cases, the blockage is largely invisible to a casual observer looking into the radiator though the filler neck.

"Where does the solid material that causes the blockage come from?" The solid material is the corrosion that results when lead, steel and aluminum comes into contact with depleted anti-freeze. This depletion of the corrosion resisting additives present in anti-freeze occurs after about one year. Lead corrosion comes from the lead solder used in the manufacture of your radiator. Steel corrosion takes place in the water jackets of the engine block. Aluminum corrosion can occur in the water jackets of the cylinder head or anywhere else in the cooling system where aluminum is present. Have you ever removed the upper radiator hose of your Z/ZX and seen a white/yellow crust on the thermostat housing neck? That crust is aluminum corrosion.

"How can I tell if my radiator is blocked and if so, what can I do about it?" The most comprehensive way to find out if your radiator is causing overheating due to blockage involves removing it from the car and having a radiator shop disassemble and inspect it. However, I'll pass along a couple of rough guidelines that I employ. If a radiator is more than eight years old and the coolant has never been changed or if the history of the cooling system is cloudy (no pun intended), you may assume that the radiator is at least 50 percent blocked. If you're sure that the components of your cooling system are operating properly, yet your car exhibits the symptoms described at the start of this piece, you may safely assume that the radiator is operating at no more than 50 percent capacity. With the supply of relatively inexpensive radiators available today, I've found that the most cost effective way to deal with a plugged radiator is replacement.

Another option would be to have the radiator rodded. Rodding is a procedure whereby a radiator shop disassembles the radiator and passes, with the aid of strong chemicals, a rod through the tubes to unplug them. In defense of option #1, I've found that rodding causes so much stress to the radiator that when you're looking for a reliable long term fix, rodding is more often than not unsatisfactory.

"Okay, Mike, I've installed a new radiator. I sure don't want to have to go through that again. What preventative maintenance for my cooling system can you recommend?" The best way to maintain your cooling system is with yearly replacement of the coolant as per the procedure described in the service manual.

"Do I need to use any of the cooling system additives I see advertised?" Modern anti-freeze already contains all of the additives your car needs – save your money!

Mike McGinnis

Banzai Motorworks

Oil Leak?

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

(1)I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHERE THAT OIL LEAK IS COMING FROM

I'm always surprised at the speed with which Z owners blame their oil pan gaskets for any oil they see on the ground. In reality, the pan gasket is rarely the cause.

The most common causes of oil leaks are defective valve cover gaskets, failed oil pressure switches, faulty oil filters, worn out oil drain plug washers and leaking front or rear engine seals.

It's critically important to remember that a valve cover gasket is a one time only part. If you reuse it you're asking for trouble.

Quality is also important. I suggest using Nissan factory gaskets.

The L24/26/28E engines used in the 240/260/280Z are canted to the right and biased slightly rearward. As a result most of the leaks occur at the right rear corner. However, leaks can spring up anywhere around the perimeter of the valve cover. If you see oil on the cylinder head anywhere above the spark plugs, you've got a leaking V/C gask. (mechspeak)

Be careful, those 6MM valve cover perimeter bolts call for only 5ft/lbs of torque and the bolt holes are easily stripped if the bolts are over tightened.

Oil pressure switches leak - a lot. My syntax may not be correct but I think you get the point. The oil pressure switch is the first place I look when I'm trying to find the source of a oil leak.

Here's what throws most people; except under unusual circumstances, the switch leaks not at the point where it is screwed into the engine block but at the end where the electrical connection is made. The end of the body of the sender is crimped around the plastic electrical switch which is the heart of the system. This is the area where scrutiny is called for. If you reach under the end of the switch and feel oil, you've got a bad one. If you remove the wire(s) from the unit and notice that the plug is covered with oil, you'll know what to do.

Again, quality is important. I've found the Nissan factory switches to be the most reliable.

Oil filters - it seems that some brands, like Lee, almost always leak and some, like Nissan, almost always don't.

Use a small mirror to inspect the bottom of the filter or reach under the strainer and check for oil.

Caution! If you change your own oil and filter, always verify that the filter's o ring seal comes off with the filter. Installing a new filter over the preceding filter's o ring will lead to catastrophe.

Replace your oil drain plug washer every 3^rd oil change and it won't leak. Don't and it will.

I've saved the most expensive for last. If the front engine seal is leaking, there will be a slow drip at the bottom of the point where the crankshaft pulley and timing chain cover meet. If the leak is severe, the centrifugal force of the pulley will have thrown oil all over the anti-sway bar. To replace the seal, it is necessary to remove the radiator and the pulley and then the defective seal.

Leaking rear engine seals are a little tricky to diagnose. Is it the rear engine or front transmission seal? Either one will result in a drip at the bottom of the union between engine and transmission. Over time the leak will bathe the transmission and adjoining sheet metal-what a mess! The only way to verify the source of the leak is to remove the transmission.

I've found that many times oil leaks are brought on by persistent overfilling. It's just as bad to overfill your engine with motor oil as it is to under fill it.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Ping

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

PING, PING, PING

Does your 1990-1992 300ZX make a pinging or ringing noise while driving in 5th gear? Have you checked all of the usual suspects; ignition timing, EGR operation, gasoline octane rating, etc., and found everything operating normally? You may need a reverse gear countermeasure kit (part number 32220-30P26). Installation of this kit requires that the gearbox be removed from the car and disassembled so be very, very sure of your diagnosis!

Mike McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Restoration Part 1

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

RESTORATION, FROM THE GROUND-UP

(First in series)

Over the next several months I will be offering, for your approval, a series of articles outlining the process of automobile restoration in general and Z car restoration in particular. I hope to be able to provide the sort of information that will be of value to fellow club members who are considering restoration.

What exactly does restoration mean? From my experience it means many things to many different people. To some it means a set of fancy wheels and a new set of carpets. To others it means a rebuilt engine and new seat covers. Friends, these are not restorations. While it is possible, and in many cases very practical, to do less than a full restoration, and we do these in my shop all the time, a ground up restoration involves reducing the body to a shell, rebuilding the sub assemblies, returning the body to like-new condition and reassembling the car using new or rebuilt components. That is the industry-recognized definition of a restoration.

What models are suitable subjects for full restorations? It is a lot easier to try to explain what models are not good candidates for restoration. Any model that exists in large numbers and can be easily purchased in excellent condition. At this point in time, this means 300ZX’s of any vintage. After all, it makes a lot more sense to find a 300 in good condition for a reasonable price than to buy a basket case and spend a lot of money bringing it back to like new condition (more on this subject later). So, what does that leave? For all practical purposes the first generation, 1970-1978 Z’s are the models that find their way into restoration shops.

What about just restoring part of an automobile? I call that system restoration. System restoration means restoring a system, i.e. brakes, suspension, etc. to new condition. This is the most common procedure we undertake at my shop. A classic case would be a first generation car whose owner is experiencing a problem with a system; let’s use the brakes as an example. On examination I might find that some portion of the brake system has had attention in the recent past but the rest of the now 25 or more year old system is original. Or, I could find that the brakes have been subject to butchery (we’ll cover this subject in more depth later). These are cases where anything less than restoration of the brake system would border on criminal behavior.

Next time, deciding what your goal is or The Slippery Slope.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Restoration Part 2

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

RESTORATION, FROM THE GROUND-UP

(Second in series)

I ended my first installment with an expression – The Slippery Slope. This installment will cover avoiding that situation.

First a bit of nomenclature straightening. You hear lots of sexy modifiers attached to the word restoration. A couple of examples are ground-up and frame-off. In the case of a Z car the correct expression is ground-up restoration. The Z, a car built using monocoque construction, doesn’t have a frame.

Whether you’re a prospective Z car owner or one who is about to make up for all those years the car sat in the garage collecting dust while the kids completed their education, you need a plan. Is there someone in my area that has experience with Z cars or will I have to have it transported to a distant shop? Do I want a full restoration or something less? How much am I willing to invest in this car stretched out over a period of time? How will I use the car after the work is completed? Will I be able to keep it in a garage or will it sit out in the weather? Think long and hard before setting out on your quest, could save you lots of aggravation.

So you’re looking for a suitable candidate. Don’t make the mistake of buying an inexpensive rusty or crashed car with the idea that you’re going to save lots of money. Buy the nicest example you can afford; can’t say this strongly enough. By spending more now, you can save tons later. If a car is sound you can save up to $10K in restoration expenses over a rusty example. Consider buying a car that has already been restored, always cheaper that way. Let the previous owner pay those big bills. In any case have it checked by someone that know Z cars before you commit yourself. I’ve had to condemn several terminally rust cars brought to me by new owners with stars in their eyes.

Let’s say your Z has been in the garage for the last few years-or decades-and it’s time to do something with it. Start by answering the questions in the 3rd paragraph followed by a session with the local Z guru. Remember, a well thought out plan is the surest way to Z car happiness!

How does one find a restoration shop that knows Z’s? Join the nearest Z club! Attend a couple of Z car shows and ask some questions. Any Z owner will be glad to tell you all about his baby.

Full or partial restoration? Very important question that begs for a well reasoned answer. Maybe the next paragraphs will be of help.

Ah yes, now for the money question. How much can I afford to spend for a full restoration to new condition? Let’s be real, and remember that payments may be stretched out over more than two years. To do the level of labor intensive work outlined in the first installment of this series will start at about $30K. If your car is rusty or has been the victim of butchery it will be more. Beware of the shop that claims to be able to do the whole job for much less. They will be taking shortcuts. A couple of customers have gagged on my initial ballpark estimate, only to spend more and achieve less by trying to do the project on the cheap.

What do I mean by butchery? I am in the process of restoring a 74 ½ 260 that was involved in several minor collisions during its 28-year life. In each case the repair was not done to recognized standards. Now those foul-ups must be made right at the expense of my customer. That’s what I mean by butchery.

What about a partial restoration, say paint, interior and mechanical? Plan to spend no less that $4K for a paint job that will look good and last. Of course, correctly performed rust repair will add considerable to the final cost. Interior restoration can be $2,500 and the mechanical stuff will run about $5K if the engine and transmission are not involved and twice that amount if they are.

If you decide to spring for a full, or even partial restoration don’t plan to use your Z as a daily driver. It will deteriorate with every paint chip and door ding. Not to mention the heartbreak! Better to use it as a club activity and nice weather fun car.

It really goes without saying that the finished product, however deeply to go, really must be left in a garage when it isn’t in use. Build the garage then do the Z car!

Next time, getting started and What can I do?

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Air Filter

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

An Air Filter Is An Air Filter, Right?

What do you mean my $3.00 air filter ruined my $600.00 air flow meter?

Both generations of 300ZXs employ a hot wire air flow sensor who's job is to tell the computer the volume of air entering the intake stream. The computer then adjusts the injector pulse width (the amount of time that the fuel injectors remain open) and therefore the amount of fuel entering the intake. The hot wire system uses a thin strand of platinum wire for control purposes. The computer heats the wire to a temp above that of the ambient air. flows past the wire its temperature decreases proportionately. The computer is able to use this information to adjust the injector pulse width.

Problems occur when the wire becomes insulated by contaminates causing the computer to receive inaccurate information. The biggest cause of hot wire contamination is the use of off-brand air filter elements. If they don't fit snugly in the air filter housing dust and dirt will enter the intake and accumulate on the wire. They can also shed small fibers that will surely lead to trouble.

So, spending a few more ducats for a Nissan, Fram, Bosch or other quality filter product can help you avoid a very large repair bill.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

ABS Noise

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Over the last month, I've had a couple of questions from 300ZX owners about a clicking noise that occurs after the ABS is activated. The noise is reported to last for several seconds before going away without any apparent change in the effectiveness of the braking system. I'm happy to report that the noise is the result of a normal condition. The clicking is the result of the ABS actuator going through it's self-check procedure and will occur after startup when the car passes 4mph for the first time, going in forward or reverse. It usually lasts for 3-5 seconds but can also be just a single click. The noise will usually be accompanied by a momentary unusual feel through the brake pedal.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Downpipe obsolete at nine-years-old

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

It began with a routine check up for my 1988 Z turbo. Our mechanic said, "No problem. We'll order a downpipe and have the Z back on the road in no time."

Time and parts are the key words here: While trying to order the part from the Nissan dealer, our mechanic was informed it was not in stock, and they did not have to carry it in stock. Being of stubborn mind and the fact that my Z was only nine years-old, I decided to try another dealer. The parts department manager assured me there would be no problem in getting the downpipe for a 1988 Z since it was in his book. He seemed incensed by my lack of confidence, so I bowed to his expertise.

A week went by, and no word or part was in sight. A quick phone call settled the question of the promise of the missing downpipe. The bewildered parts manager explained that he was informed that the part was not available anywhere. It's not as if I was trying to get an antique license plate from the MVA, but that's a Z of a different color and another story for another time ;).

All my Z needed was a simple downpipe! It's only nine years old. Discouraged and distraught, I went to the Z-club meeting to voice my displeasure about the lack of cooperation from the Nissan dealers and their parts departments. Again, I was told " I can get that part for you" by a confident club member. It goes without saying that I was dubious. However, the source was good, so I agreed it was worth a try. About a week later, that now-bewildered club member called to echo the dealers: "It doesn't exist!"

Having met Mike McGinnis, of Banzai Motorworks, at some club activities and gained considerable respect for his experience and knowledge, I called him. Mike's shop is a long way from my home, so I hadn't called him first. When I did, he was cautiously optimistic. A week later, Mike called and, with a triumphant voice, reported he had the downpipe. Yes, there is a happy ending to the story, thanks to Mike McGinnis, My Hero! He did give a final warning to take care of this downpipe, because it's the last one.

by Jessie Samuels

Temperature Sensor

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Is your fuel injected Z (1995 and up) consuming a lot of gas, fouling spark plugs, stumbling on acceleration, or hard to start?
The fault may be with your temperature sensor.

The coolant temperature sensor (75-79) or cylinder head temperature sensor (80 and up) plays an important role in the performance of your Z car. The sensor “tells” the engine management computer the temperature of the coolant or cylinder head so that it, the computer, can adjust the injector pulse width (the length of time the injectors stay open and therefore the amount of gas that can enter the combustion chamber). The sensor talks to the computer by way of varying resistance (ohms). When the temperature is low the resistance of the sensor is high and vice versa.

How can we accurately diagnose a bad sensor? First we need a couple of tools. The most important tool is a factory service manual. The factory manual not only shows the location of the sensor but it also contains a graph and chart that clearly indicates the relationship between temperature and resistance. We will also need an ohm meter. With the engine stone cold, disconnect the sensor from the harness. Using your ohm meter, measure and record the sensor resistance. Start the engine and allow it to reach approximately 120 degrees as indicated by the coolant temperature gauge. Stop the engine, measure and record the sensor resistance. This step is important because the sensor must be accurate not only at the temperature extremes but also throughout it’s range. Restart the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature or about 180 degrees. Stop the engine, measure and record the sensor resistance. If any of your findings vary significantly from the factory specifications, you have a defective sensor.

It’s important to note that if your car has a defective thermostat, stuck fan clutch or anything else that prevents the engine from reaching normal operating temperature, it CANNOT operate at maximum efficiency.

A word of caution, some models employ a short wiring harness between the sensor and the main injection harness. If you find that the sensor is OK, you may have a bad sensor harness. It too can be checked with your ohm meter. It should measure 0 ohms. Frequently the connectors at either end can, over time, become corroded effectively blocking the resistance signal from reaching the computer. As a practical matter whenever I find a bad temperature sensor and a sensor harness that’s old and therefore suspect, I replace both simultaneously. It just makes good sense.

Good hunting!

Mike McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Nuts

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Well boys and girls, this month’s topic is the world of lug nut torque and the correct way to arrive at same. Every mechanic knows that incorrectly tightened lug nuts will lead to broken or bent wheels, warped brake rotors or uneven wheel to hub contact. However, there are still many of my colleagues that ignore the rules of the road when it comes to tightening lug nuts. Well mister wise guy, what are the rules?
Initial tightening must be done one lug nut at a time by hand. This means installing each nut onto the stud one at a time using your fingers. We have all seen the uneducated install a lug nut and then crank it down with an air wrench before moving on to the next one, WRONG!! With the wheel hanging freely on the studs, it is not squarely against the hub. While hanging in this position, tightening one nut jams the wheel against the hub and pins it there unevenly. Tightening the next nut pulls the wheel more-or-less even. But, because part of the wheel is already pinned against the hub, that section cannot move. In other words, the center web of the wheel is being twisted with a lot of force. The stresses caused in tightening the remaining nuts in sequence work to distort both the wheel web and the hub of the brake rotor.
The next stop is to SNUG the nuts using a breaker bar and a 6 point socket. This is the time to employ the criss-cross pattern shown in our factory service manual. Don’t have a factory service manual? DO NOT WORK ON ANY AUTOMOBILE WITHOUT ONE!!
The final step is to tighten the nuts, using the same pattern in step 2, to the torque indicated in the manual. The only way to know if the required torque has been achieved is by using a torque wrench.
It is wise to recheck the wheel nut torque after driving 50-100 miles.

So, the next time you or anyone else has occasion to remove and reinstall the wheels on your Z car, be sure that the steps I have outlined are followed.

Mike McGinnis

Banzai Motorworks

Parts Alert

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

First in a continuing series

The purpose of this column is to provide information on the availability of replacement parts for first generation (1970- 1978) Z cars.

The following parts are No Longer Available (NLA) from Nissan; deck lid "Datsun: emblem (70 - 78), front fender emblem (75 - 78), glove box door emblem (70 - 73), rear bumper override rubber facings (70 - 73), red interior trim (70 - 73), brown door seals (74 - 78).

The following parts are in very short supply from Nissan; deck lid "240" emblem (70-73), deck lid "280" emblem (74-78), dash emblem (75-78), wiper arms (70-75), upper door seals (76-78), gas door flap hold down bar (77-78), front and rear bumper ends (77-78), carburetor parts (70-73).

Some of the parts I've listed as being NLA may still be available on the aftermarket.

Folks, I hate to beat a dead horse but if you plan to keep your Z car, now is the time to seek out those rare pieces!

Mike McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Good Books and Magazines to Read

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Good Books and Magazines to read:

Z car magazine, Seacoast Publishing Inc., P.O Box 2736, Florence OR 97439, USA
This is a bi-monthly glossy covering show cars, club features, restoration, performance mods, motorsports, tech Q&A, classifieds, etc.
“The Z series Datsun: A collector’s guide” by Ray Hutton, Motor Racing Publications 28 Devonshire Road, London W4 2HD.
Detailed descriptions, invaluable reference data, restoration and maintenance information, plus a review of competition histories.
“240/260/280Z, Super Profile”, Haynes Publications.
“How to Hot Rod and Race Your Datsun” by Bob Waar.
Covers 510, 610, 710, 200SX, 240Z, 260Z and 280Z. Contains info on engine building, tuning, road racing, handling, suspension, bolt on power, etc.
“How to Restore your Datsun Z Car” by Wick Humble.
A step by step guide to restoring any 1970 to 1977 240/260/280 Z. Includes body repair, suspension and brake rebuilding, engine and drive line detailing and interior restoration.
“Nissan 300ZX: The Enthusiasts Companion”, Ray Hutton.
A complete look at what makes this car such a Porsche killer. Includes a thorough engine and Chassis design analysis, history and much more.
“Turbochargers” by Roy Macinnes.
HP books Excellent general purpose turbo-charging book. covers all topics. Touches on Z-cars. Updated Frequently.
“How to modify your Nissan/Datsun OHC engine” (the author’s name slips my mind). A really excellent book.
“Z car: A Legend in its Own Time”, by Ben Millspaugb.
A really fabulous book. Very, very interesting. A book every Z car nut should own.
“Super Power - A Do-it-yourself Guide to Turbo-charging, Supercharging, Fuel injection and Nitrous Oxide” Pub. by. S-A Design Publishing Co.
Very good book on the above subjects. Aimed primarily at Detroit Iron, though there is some small engine information. Extensive coverage of Nitrous Oxide.
“How to Modify Datsun 510, 610, 240Z Engines and Chassis” HP Books Probably out of print now but worth the effort to get. Covers all aspects of modifying a Z car or sedans for autocross, LMSA and other road-type racing. Known as “The Bible” amongst old time Z nuts.
“Electronic Fuel Injection” - Internal Nissan training text from the National Technical Training Center.
This book is almost impossible to get but is absolutely vital for those working on Bosch L-jetronic injection systems. This book provides very in-depth coverage of the design, operation, maintenance, and troubleshooting concepts for the L-jetromc systems as installed in 280Zs in the 1975-79 time-frame. This book was designed for use in factory mechanic training courses. Well worth the trouble to get.
Road & Track Illustrated Automotive Dictionary (second edition), by John Dinkel, Bentley Publishers, Cambridge, Mass, 2000, ISBN 0-8376-0143-6
Confused by the expressions bump-steer and tire scrub? Wish you could better understand the last repair order your mechanic gave you? If the answer is yes then this book is for you. Lavishly illustrated, 250 pages long and written in plain English, it can answer most any automotive question. John Dinkel SAE has been the engineering editor of Road & Track magazine for more than 20 years. Over that time he has answered the car questions from the subtle to the sublime. In many cases he found that inquiries were nothing more than confusion over definitions. The first edition, published in 1977, grew out of a series of articles that appeared in R&T in 1975 and 1976. Since that time there has been a lot of water under the automotive technology bridge necessitating a revised edition. However, don't think that this volume is just for the hard core. With over 1300 detailed definitions it covers lo-tech like driving lamps and crankshaft while simultaneously being as up to date as plus fitments and anti-wheel spin.I keep a copy of this excellent reference at my shop for use as a teaching tool. You can also use it to settle bets!
"Turn Around", by David Magee
For everyone who wanted to know everything about Nissan, this book's for you. It tells how Carlos Gosh Nissan's current CEO turned the company around. A good book for some light reading (it even has pictures)!

Inner Shift Boot

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Inner shift boot? What the heck is an inner shift boot?

We’re all aware of the vinyl or leather boot that surrounds the shift lever but there is a second shift lever boot, one that leads a less glamorous but much more important life. It’s called the inner shift boot. The inner boot is actually a large rubber seal at the point where the shift lever passes through the car’s body.

If the inner boot is torn or missing, exhaust fumes, road and/or transmission noise and cold air will enter the cabin.

The only way to determine the condition of your inner shift boot is through visual inspection. This involves either removing your console and having a look or going under your car and checking on the condition of the boot from below. If you find that the integrity of your boot is compromised, then replacement is the only option.

Mike McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Timing Belt

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

A Timing Belt is a Timing Belt - Right?

As the owner of a Z car repair shop I get a lot of phone calls from folks price shopping for a 300ZX timing belt replacement. Sometimes, after quoting the price, I'll hear something like, "Oh, Jiffy Tune or Precision Lube or fill-in-the-blank only charges 'x', how come you charge more?".

The purpose of this article is to explain what constitutes a long lasting timing belt replacement job.

A timing belt is a ribbed rubber belt that connects the crankshaft and the camshafts. Beginning in the 1980's automobile manufacturers began converting from timing chains to timing belts in an effort to make engines quieter. The drawback to this arrangement is that unlike a timing chain with a life expectancy of more than 100,000 miles, a timing belt must be replaced every 60,000 miles.

What can happen if I don't replace my timing belt? If you don't change your timing belt and it breaks, which it eventually will, the valves and pistons inside your engine will collide. This will result in catastrophic damage that could cost in the thousands of dollars to repair. Unless you are a gambler, this is not a risk to be taken lightly.

A little bit of my car repair philosophy: when I repair a system I try to think of the future. In other words, what can I do to make this system perform as designed for as long as the intended life expectancy? In the case of the timing belt system, and it is important to think of it as a system, I want all of the related components to last as long as the replacement timing belt. I don't want to repeat my labor in a week, month or year because I failed to replace a component of the system.

What related components should we renew when the timing belt is replaced? Of course, the alternator, power steering and air-conditioning belts must be replaced. After all, they have to be removed in order to gain access to the timing belt. It's foolish not to replace the water pump as you would have to repeat most of your labor to replace this part at a future date. Remember, water pumps generally have a life span of less than 100,000 miles. That leaves the belt tensioner and, in the case of the mk2 (1990-1996), the idler pulleys. Think of these parts as bearings and as such their failure will lead down that big repair bill highway.

So, the next time someone quotes a price to replace your timing belt, be sure that their estimate includes those parts necessary to guarantee miles of worry free motoring.

Mike McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Six Valuable Tips For Your 300ZX (Z31) Part 1

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

It can get really hot under that low hood and high temps will lead to short battery life. Inan attempt to deal with that problem Nissan equipped every unit with a battery shield. The shield is made of stamped sheet metal and is very effective in deflecting a good measure of the under hood heat. Most of the cars I see are missing the shield, where did it go? It was tossed the last time your battery was replaced.
Mike, when the cold weather sets in my car is hard to start. I crank and crank until it finally starts but it idles at very low rpms for a few seconds and then cuts off. I repeat this procedure several times and then it’s ok, what’s going on? You probably have a defective auxiliary air regulator. The AAR supplies an additional shot of air down stream of the throttle plate which causes a high idle, 12 to 1500 RPM, during warm up. Replacement is the cure.
Have you recently replaced your air flow meter only to find that the problem you hoped, or prayed, was behind you resurface? One of the most common causes of air flow meter failure is a defective air injection valve. A failed AIV will allow exhaust gas and moisture to enter the air intake stream and foul the air flow meter hot wire. It is my policy to always replace these two components simultaneously.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Six Valuable Tips For Your 300ZX (Z31) Part 2

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

I continue to see cars that have not been modified as part of the factory fuel injection recall campaign. Folks, there have been a number of cars that burned to the ground as the result of a leaking fuel injector and or related fuel hose(s). Nissan continues to offer a FREE recall program that addresses this problem-please take advantage of their largess before it is too late! You do not have to be the original owner to take advantage of this program. If you have recently purchased an 84-89 300ZX and are not sure if the campaign has been performed call your local Nissan dealer. Once armed with your vehicle identification number (VIN) they will be able to tell you what recalls have and have not been done to your ZX.
Do you see a puddle of red liquid on your garage floor? Is the puddle about one foot inboard of your front tire? If the answer is yes then you probably have a leaking power steering rack. There are seals at the ends of the power steering rack shafts and after years of service these seals will eventually leak. The fluid leaking past the seal will slowly fill the power steering rack boot. Finally, the boot will yield to the corrosive effects of the fluid and spill its contents on your garage floor one-drop at a time. The only long-term fix is replacement of the power steering rack with a Nissan unit. Yes, there are rebuilt units available but it has been my experience that the aftermarket can often be a crapshoot.
More than 30 years of Z car experience has taught me a lot about what will work and won’t. I’m talking about what constitutes a long term, craftsmanlike repair and the replacement parts that help lead to that destination. When it comes to brake parts I am a Nissan fanatic. They fit and work-period. In the case of the 300ZX there are other advantages to sticking to the original stuff. Early cars had a problem with front brake rotor thickness variation, which will manifest itself as a pulsating pedal. The replacement Nissan front brake rotors are machined to tolerances unheard of in the aftermarket. Of course, we are always going to replace ALL of the brake pad hardware everytime we replace the brake pads. The factory hardware kit contains everything required.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Ruptured Tension/Compression Rod Bushing

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Have you noticed a sticky, black fluid on the ground under the front of your Mk2 300ZX (1900-1996)? On close examination does it look as if the leak is coming from the front of one or both of your tension/compression rods? The standard explanation for such evidence is that the leak originated above the rod, fell on the rod and thus onto the deck. However, in the case we are reviewing, the source of the liquid is far more elegant.

In the never ending quest to reduce the transfer of road noise, vibration and harshness to the driver, the engineers at Nissan came up with a pretty clever idea. The job of the tension/compression rod is to laterally secure the control arm to the chassis. The rod is bolted directly to the control arm but secured to the chassis with the aid of a rubber bushing or bushings. Think of it as a motor mount for your front suspension. In the case of the 300, the bushing appears to be the standard model and although the exterior looks like the old standby, it is filled with a gel-like material. These fluid filled mounts do a much more effective job of energy absorption than the solid rubber units ever could. Yes, I can hear my performance minded readers asking "doesn't that fluid filled mount make the front suspension kind of sloppy?" Remember, the fluid filled mount is built for comfort, not speed.

OK, have you been paying attention? By now we can see that the source of the leak is a ruptured tension/compression rod bushing. The very high stress level that the rod is subjected to will eventually cause cracks to appear in the rubber exterior allowing the fluid to escape. What is the fix? Nissan does not supply the bushings separately so we have to replace the complete rod.

Relax, it isn't the engine.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Hook Me Up

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

If your 350Z ever requires towing, there are a couple of very important requirements that must be met.

1^st: Use a rollback/flatbed type wrecker only.

2^nd: To avoid damage to the front suspension, you must employ the tow hook, which is stored next to jack. The tow hook screws into a hole in the center of the grill, directly below the Nissan emblem. If you live in a state that requires a front tag, it will have to be removed first.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

The following was submited by email from Michael Lindgren, Bob Hinson Towing, Inc. Englewood, CO. Thank you!

Quick note on the "hook me up" section. To be perfectly blunt, the advice to use a flatbed tow truck and the front mounted hook can and will cause damage to the vehicle. Think it through for a second and it becomes obvious. A flat bed truck's bed comes back and down to for a ramp, and a wench is used with dual hooks to pull the vehicle onto the ramp/bed. After securing the car the whole bed (w/ car) is raised back to the original position.

Here's the problem with the front hook. When you first hook it up, the wench is slightly higher than the mount, which over a ten to twenty foot distance is fine. But as the car is pulled up towards the wench, the pulling becomes more angled as the the car approaches the wench(which is "ground level" on the bed) until it even exceeds 45 degrees, sometimes becoming almost vertical. At this extreme of an angle, it pulls the front of the car down(and the screwed in hook), more than likely causing damage to the hook, body, and suspension. To secure a vehicle on a flat bed, chains are also connected to a rear point of the car, and tightened untill the car begins to come down on the suspension. This put's an extreme pressure on the car, and is only safe for the frame or suspension. Even the owner's manual states that the scew in hook is only for freeing a stuck vehicle (such as mud, ditch or snow bank). It is even stong enough for flat towing, such as being towed behind another vehicle (obviously another passenger vehicle) just not a tow truck. Add that with the time it takes to take off a license plate, find the hook, screw it in, and then use it...hey, we're always in a hurry to get broken cars off the road.

The reason I know this, is that I am in fact a flatbed tow driver, and some BMWs have this option. After damaging a pricy BMW(and having to pay for it), I've sworn never to hook to a front screw-in hook again. Most new cars (80's on) have tow "slots" on the bottom of the cars which are usually on the frame, but always strong enough for towing and securing a vehicle on a flatbed. The few that don't (and most that do have the slots) are hooked on the front A arms which are more than stong enough to support the weight of the car, even if it has to be dragged for some distance. If for some reason the arms arn't strong enough to support such activity, the manufacturer places warnings stamped into the metal for us drivers.

On a flat bed, cars are pulled as far forward as possible to help maintain control and steering while driving the truck. Also it is normal for a car to sink down on its suspension when it is secured with rear chains (required). this does not in any way cause damage to the car. It's just like having a lot of weight in the car, or going over a bump. If it dosen't sink down a little bit, the car will bouce around over bumps and around corners...this is also more likely to cause damage than tightening it down.

Point is, please don't tell a driver to use such a hook, he know's what he's doing. Even if the car has been in an accident, the driver will do anything in his power not to damage the vehicle further. Plus I'd hate to see any Z car damaged in anyway, from the 240 all the way up to the 350(let alone my beloved 280Z). And if the driver damages your car on the way to a garage, have them write up that damage was caused by the tow, and then go after the tow company...they're required to pay for any damage that could have been avoided. Please also keep in mind that if you roll over the car, we have to roll it back over to get it on its wheels...we can't help that damage, and will not pay for it...you do want it towed don't you?

Michael Lindgren
Bob Hinson Towing, Inc.
Englewood, CO

The Part Datsun Forgot

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

This story starts back in the dark ages, 1970. We're talking time travel here. Of course that was the year of the Z, Datsun dealers were backed up with a 6-9 months demand and a very limited supply. We mechanics gave the salesmen a hard time by calling them order takers. The product was per sold- Datsun was #1. We could not keep a car in the lot or on the showroom floor. It made no difference what flavor you wanted, Z, 510, 1200, truck, all the same story. A couple of truckloads would arrive on Monday and by Wednesday they were in the hands of their new owners. That went on for almost a year. Getting off on a tangent here, sorry.

It's important to remember that the first generation Z cars were not designed or built anywhere near today's standards. The Lexus ball bearing test simply wouldn't work. The early cars were, let's face it, built to a price. No undercoating,an unpainted transmission tunnel, very little seam sealer, no screen between the deck lid and the trim panel. That was just the understood industry standard when it came to fit and finish.

As all of us who own a first generation car know; exhaust fumes in the cabin ranks right up there with steering wheel shake above 50 MPH. We'll experience it at least once and go to a lot of trouble chasing it down. Once again a design, fit and finish issue which gets to the meat of this ramble. The factory should have installed a screen between the inside of the deck lid and the trim panel, but didn't. You have, or should have, one on each door why not on the deck lid? After all, that's the area where most if not all of the exhaust fume problems originate. What's a screen? It's a sheet of plastic shower stall liner type material attached to the inside of the doors (between the door and the door panel) with 3M Strip Caulk. If you're pulling out your hair trying to find the source of that stink give this retrofit a try.

Mike McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Super Turbo Muffler Install

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Initially when we bought the car, we thought it sounded great. A little on the "Ricer" side but powerful. After doing some other modifications to the car, I noticed that the muffler had a hole in it. It had just rusted right through. Now we know the cause of that distinctive "Ricer" sound.

After some thought and a lot of research I decided to replace the exhaust system starting at the Y-pipe and going back to the tail pipe. I decided to go with MSA's Super Turbo 2.5" exhaust.

The kit included all necessary aluminized pipes, clamps, hangers, muffler and large chrome tip (very cool looking). After only 5 days from the time I placed the order, it arrived at my doorstep.

Now I needed to recruit some help! Fred, another club member and a great friend of mine, had his arm twisted and finally said "Uncle" to my request for help. Actually it wasn't a twisting of the arm but the promise of baked goods from my girlfriend that brought him around!

In order to get under the car we used ramps, since we both live in townhouses. Please be very careful when using these. We placed wheel chocks under the front tires to prevent the car from rolling off the ramps and we set the car in reverse gear and initiated the hand break. We then proceeded to remove the old rusty, and let me stress rusty, muffler and pipe.

First we removed or loosened the old clamps that kept the muffler and pipes suspended. Then we proceeded to disconnect old assembly from the Y-pipe. Remember, I was only replacing the parts from the Y-pipe back. The joint was rusted up. After years of heat and corrosion, the two had bonded together. That's where an electric cutter came in handy. Always good to have a friend with power tools! Since the Y-pipe was inserted into the pipe that we were trying to remove, we knew that we could cut this pipe without damaging the Y-pipe.

Fred proceeded to cut a slot into the pipe deep enough to make the pipe break upon any kind of side-to-side or up-and-down movement. We wiggled the muffler along with the pipe until it broke, raining rust and debris all over us. But it finally disconnected from the Y-pipe.

So we finally removed the muffler. Now this muffler was rusted so badly in the inside that it sounded like a huge baby rattle when we shook it. No wonder the neighbors would stare at us when we started her up! And we thought it was out of envy!

After much munching on some homemade soft pretzels, we started installing the new exhaust. Like most projects, it proved to be not as simple as we initially thought. We learned that the pipes supplied in the kit did not fit very well. One problem was that the Y-pipe was longer than expected, thus making us eliminate the short pipe from the kit. Now we had to deal with the long pipe, the S pipe (it goes from the muffler under the rear axle), and the muffler.

We started connecting and adjusting the S-pipe to the muffler. After successfully doing that, we suspended our assembly under the car using new hangers. Now we had to install just the pipe missing from the Y-pipe to the S-pipe. Doing this way allowed us to place the long pipe in between and see how well (fingers crossed) it would fit. Since we eliminated the short pipe from the kit we used the long pipe to fill the gap. We quickly learned that the bends in the long pipe did not allow us to position the pipe correctly without touching the car's undercarriage. No matter how we tried, it would not fit. Either it touched the undercarriage or we could not get the Y-pipe and S-pipe connected. To our chagrin we learned that the bends had to be in a certain location so that the pipe would not touch the undercarriage.

Since we had the ordinal short straight pipe lying around, we made the decision to cut the long pipe. Yes, there was a reason for MSA including the short pipe in the kit! After measuring where it should be cut, we used the electrical cutter to accomplish the task.

Now we proceeded to connect all our pieces - the cut long pipe, the short pipe, the S-pipe and the muffler. It was tight but it fit without touching the undercarriage.

Next step was to attach the clamps on the joints. But we soon discovered that the clamp on the joint between the long-used-to-be-pipe and the short pipe was again touching the car's undercarriage. At this point there were no pretzels left and nothing else we could do about the touching. We finished hanging the exhaust system.

For the few short periods that I drove the car after the installation, I could hear the clamp hitting the undercarriage. So I took the car to the local muffler shop to have the joint MIG welded. One tip: if you have to do the same - do not wait too long. Have it welded while the pipe is in new condition, otherwise, the shop may refuse to weld it or it may not weld correctly.

Now that everything is taken care of, no undercarriage rattle and no hole in the muffler, my first impressions? Love it! The sound is nice - it is deeper, throatier, but not too loud either. Under normal driving I am not aware of the exhaust sound. However, once I hit accelerator, it opens up and lets everyone around you hear - THE Z IS COMING!

Giedrius and Fred.

End Those Blinking Light Blues Part 2

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

To continue (from the March 1995 newsletter)....

The 1970-1974 Z car front parking light/turn signal assembly, aesthetically mounted below the bumper, is frequently a magnet for electrical gremlins. The gremlins are intermittent and/or inoperative front parking lights intermittent and/or inoperative front turn signals or a parking light fuse that blows for no apparent reason.

The only thing between the bulb housing and the elements is a rubber gasket. After a quarter century or so the gasket becomes brittle and cracks allowing water to come in contact with the electrical innards. This combination of a leaking gasket and a light housing, only inches off the pavement, is an invitation to electrical illness.

Frequently, automobile manufacturers, in an effort to save .000001¢ per car, build light housings and their electrical components as one expensive unit. Datsun, in their wisdom, did not. The front running light reflector and bulb holder/wiring are 2 separate parts. This arrangement allows the 240/260 owner to replace the modestly priced bulb holder and attached wiring if he or she suspects a gremlin attack.

The down side of this arrangement is parts availability. If you need, or think you may need in the future, one or both of these pieces, don't hesitate. The supply is starting to dry up and when it's gone, I'm sure Nissan won't resume production.

Michael McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

Coming to a Town Near You

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

Nissan US distributes their replacement parts through a network of regional depots. From those depots and thence to our local dealers flows the manna that keeps our Z cars alive. At least that’s the way it’s supposed to work. There are always pesky problems like backorders and cancellations fouling-up the works, but that’s meat for another article.

Let’s say your local dealer orders a windshield gasket for your 1975 260 2+ 2. If that dealer is in the mid-Atlantic area your order will be sent to our regional depot in Somerset, NJ. If they don’t have it in stock the order automatically goes to the next closest depot which is in Aurora, IL and so forth until it reaches Compton, CA and what Nissan calls the master depot. No, the master depot is not the secret repository for all those rear parts that everyone knows are stashed somewhere. Rather, the master depot is simply the largest of the depots, is close to US headquarters and receives the lion’s share of the containers from the homeland. And Nissan will open their new Glen Burnie, that’s right, Glen Burnie, Maryland parts depot. No, this doesn’t mean that you can pop in on a Saturday morning and buy an oil filter for your Sentra, they’re not open for retail trade. However, it does mean that your windshield gasket can reach your local dealer a day of more sooner than if the order went through the Somerset depot.

Nissan’s French relationship has been so successful that there is now a need for a second East Coast depot (for about 15 years we had one in Portsmouth, VA but it closed in the 80’s). So, on Monday February 2nd Nissan will open their new Glen Burnie, that’s right, Glen Burnie, Maryland parts depot. No, this doesn’t mean that you can pop in on a Saturday morning and buy an oil filter for your Sentra, they’re not open for retail trade. However, it does mean that your windshield gasket can reach your local dealer a day of more sooner than if the order went through the Somerset depot.

Mike McGinnis
Banzai Motorworks

2003 350Z Front Wheel Alignment Warranty Extension

mzc@mdzclub.org () — Sun, 05 Nov 2006 09:20:10 EST

The document is in Adobe PDF format.

2003 350Z Front Wheel Alignment Warranty Extension